It is a fine summers day. The loudspeaker gently drones. Wisps of cloud float across the sky while a breeze lazily lifts and lowers the flags around the racecourse. Holding on to their hats women pick their way across the turf to the viewing ring while men in blazers and panama hats greet one another with handshakes and 'Good to see you old boy.'

Ascot? Epsom? No: Nuwara Eliya, a hill town lying 1889 metres above sea level in the heart of Sri Lanka or 'Little England' as its also known on account of its temperate climate and fertile soil. Intertwined among all the attributes of a traditional Sri...