The Korean sangha, the body of monks and nuns, forms a true hierarchical church. Their uniforms are grey instead of saffron as in the Therevada tradition. Monks and nuns share a robust sense of humour, a stark contrast to the stiffness of the Jogye sect hierarchy.

To Korean visitors, Buddhist temples are museums as much as places of worship. For a nation which prides itself on having reached the status of the top ten developed countries within a generation - the Korean war ended in 1953 - temples are cherished as the few remaining relics of their proud past. Most temples offer "templestay" programs...