In the early morning, a few elderly Westerners enter the sea where it is relatively calm, protected by a rocky outcrop. Later, this spot will become the launching place for the speed boats and therefore out of bounds for swimming. Floating in the swell, the bathers look down the beach. No-one is in the water just a few yards along, because the unhindered waves are so powerful, and the undertow so strong.

Aside from one or two early sun-worshippers, already spread-eagled on their loungers, the only other people on the beach are the fishermen, hauling in the nets dropped from their boats some hours...