Bathroom graffiti in Ali Al Salem Air Force Base in Kuwait. Ali Al Salem is the main transit point for soldiers entering and leaving Iraq. It is a vast, shade-free complex in the middle of the desert. In the center are hundreds of large tents, where soldiers wait out the heat of the day, watching DVD's or reading. Skirting the edges of the tent city are dozens of trailer-sized containers containing bathroom and shower facilities. The walls of the stalls are scrawled with soldiers' recollections, musings, confessions, fears, hopes, anger, and humor. Some remember their fallen comrades. Others...